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True Southern
Comfort: Shrimp & Grits
For
years, I thought the only thing worthy of adding to hot,
buttered grits was crisp, crumbled bacon and, on rare
occasions, typically on Sunday, cheese, eggs and Tabasco.
Moreover, shrimp were not to be included in stuff, they were
good enough to be considered stuff all by themselves ---as
in fried shrimp, shrimp cocktail, barbecued shrimp and just
plain, old, boiled shrimp. A well made shrimp po’ boy on a
freshly made french baguette, is a hard act to follow.
Unless that act is a fried oyster po’ boy.
Fortunately, there is a great way to combine grits and
shrimp, using the merits of both to go beyond the sum of
their parts. It is, of course, shrimp & grits, as if it
weren’t obvious.
Start with
real good grits ...
Grits and corn meal became staples in the South because corn
could be dried and kept long past the harvest and ground
when you wanted it. This also has the tremendous advantage
of preserving the flavors and freshness inside the grain.
It’s why hot milled, store-bought grits never taste as good
as those from the freshly stone-ground corn. An added
benefit to grits in the South both after the Civil War and
during the Great Depression, was high food value relative to
cost. In those times, many people were struggling.
Add some
fresh shrimp
Due
to the closeness of salt marshes in the Carolina Low Country
and around the Gulf of Mexico, Southern coastal regions long
have been prime breeding grounds for the marvelous little
ten-legged crustaceans we know as shrimp. (Oysters, too, but
that’s another story).
One thing Southern cooks are celebrated for is inventiveness
and creativity with available resources --- long tested and
strengthened over time by necessity. Nothing could be more
natural for a “low country” cook than putting shrimp on top
of hot grits for breakfast. Today it has become a gussied-up
favorite for anytime of the day and you’ll find them in
places as diverse as five-star restaurants and fish camps
from San Fransisco to Charleston.
But not too
hot!
I like to put
the heat into the food rather than on it so I
use fresh chiles to accomplish this. Dried and flaked ones
work too but, fresh or dry, get them in during the cook-up.
I use a couple of chiles chopped and seeded, and usually one
more, seeds and all, and this usually gives the food the
right degree of “warm glow” for my taste. Don’t try to make
your stuff too hot just to prove how tough you are because
you’ll bury the flavors in a fog of discomfort. I made this
mistake myself. Once.
Making this
recipe takes aproximately two beers, if you’re not real
thirsty, or a couple of glasses of wine. Be sure to place
your wine glass away from your cutting board in case it
slips. I probably don’t have to tell you that this advice is
born of experience!
Well, if you’re ready, pop a top on a cold one and let’s get
started.
Shrimp &
Grits (serves four normal people or two disgusting table
hogs)
This plan will take you about 35-40 minutes,
depending on the proximity of your wine glass to the cutting
board.
HERE’S WHAT YOU NEED FROM THE STORE:
Two pounds shrimp
Two or three fresh red cherry or red fresno chiles
(1 big jalapeno will work).
Onion (one, baseball-size)
Green onion (one bunch)
Parsley (you’ll use 1/3 bunch)
Garlic (you’ll use one clove)
Stone-ground white or yellow
corn grits
Butter (unsalted!)
1 pound andouille
Half-pound ham slice
Wondra flour for sauces
Paprika
Wine (red or white)
Bay leaves
Tabasco
Salt & black pepper
HERE’S WHAT YOU NEED IN THE KITCHEN:
Skillet (one with a cover).
Whisk
Couple of bowls.
Cutting board.
Cook’s knife.
Measuring spoons.
Four-quart pot with tight fitting top.
Measuring cup.
How to
cook your grits
Into a 4-quart saucepan that has a cover
put:
One cup white or yellow stone-ground grits.
One teaspoon salt.
Four cups water.
Four tablespoons unsalted butter
Cover, cook on medium-low 15-minutes,
stirring with whisk every 5 minutes.
Remove from heat. Leave covered up to 15
minutes or until served.
* For a creamier taste, you may use
marscarpone cheese instead of butter |
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HERE’S HOW YOU PUT
IT TOGETHER:
- Peel the
shrimp and set aside
- Finely chop
the chiles (leave the seeds in one) with onion,
green onion, parsley & garlic.
- Saute this on
medium-low 5-7 min. in a tablespoon of olive
oil. Drain and set aside in a bowl,
leaving oil in skillet.
- Prepare grits
covered in a 4-quart saucepan with butter & salt
(see how-to section below).
- Add 1/8 inch
water to the skillet, poach the andoiulle
covered on medium-low heat (you will need 15
minutes), remove cover and allow to brown on
both sides then turn off heat, remove and dice
the andouille.
- In the same
skillet, fry the ham on low heat adding 1/4
stick butter on medium heat (both sides) until
browned.
- Remove browned
ham and dice it, leaving juices in skillet.
- Sprinkle two
teaspoons Wondra into the skillet and stir to
blend on medium heat.
- Add a half-cup
of dry wine.
- Add half
teaspoon paprika.
- Add the
sauteed vegetables from the bowl.
- Add the cut up
andouille and the cut up ham with two bay leaves
(or four small ones). Add more wine or a little
water if needed.
- Add a few
drops of Tabasco.
- Add the peeled
raw shrimp.
- Add two green
onions, finely chopped.
- Allow this to
simmer slowly for 3-5 minutes, adding a little
water or stock or wine if necessary.
- Spoon hot
shrimp mixture with gravy over the grits as
shown.
- Garnish with a
sprinkle of paprika and chopped parsley.
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